Brussels Sprouts
DuBois,
PA Late Nixon Administration The benchmark, established at a Formica and chrome
kitchen table in the real not Instagram early Seventies, is a bland, mushy
bitterness, battered, green and soggy, throat-closing and frightening. Common practice at 523 Burt Street DuBois, PA
and at Grandma’s house the next block over on Reams Street (in retrospect, more
an alley than a street but I think it has been paved since) was to cook a vegetable
into complete defeat. I can’t blame my family;
it was common practice then in many households.
The mandatory splat of four or five sprouts on a Thanksgiving plate
otherwise filled with happy, brown, carbohydrate-centric foods disrupted our
turkey Zen, scratching the Polaroid holiday memory yet to be realized. No matter how much gravy and bread awesomeness
went into my mouth, I knew that the slow static warfare over the sprouts had
begun.
Of course, I grew up and left DuBois primarily to
escape vegetable persecution. I avoided
Brussels sprouts for many years.
The
Occidental, Washington DC, 1986 During the peak of the al dente vegetable, the
Brussels sprout was simply another veg. on the Enterementier station to blanch,
shock, dry, and cut before service. I’d
trim the roots and outer leaves, drop them in boiling slated-‘till-it-tastes-like-blood
water, and gamble on when to pull them out.
If not blanched long enough, the warmed but still raw cores would brown
halfway through service, causing our hostilely narcissistic, compulsively abusive
sous chef to throw them across the kitchen and screetchinlgy mock me. If cooked too much, they’d dissolve into mush
when they hit the butter of the finishing skillet before served on a plate of
lamb chops with piped sweet potato puree and rosemary-scented jus. This mushy mess would also end up decorating
the wall over the dish station to cigarette-breath expletive-laden barrage of
same Sous Chef.
I can’t remember a day I got it correct. The arrival of asparagus season, while
presenting a separate set of issues, brought happiness to me that had nothing
to do with the arrival of spring. I
received a six-month reprieve.
Berkeley,
CA 1994 As
I am exiting the Graduate program in the Chemistry Department, finishing my
coursework and collect my consolation prize Master’s degree from the top
Chemistry program in the world. As an
adjustment to my return to cooking, I picked up a cook’s job at Baywolf
Restaurant in nearby Piedmont. I liked
the place, Mediterranean-California cuisine focusing on seasonal ingredients,
local products, and tasty but accessible wines.
(Sound familiar Highland Ave?) It was fall, and even though everything gowns
all the time in California, the East Coast rhythms of harvest and planting
still showed through menus.
Needless to say, it was Brussels sprouts time. We served them with the duck that came off my
station. Before service, I’d sear them
with a little reserved duck fat, season them with salt, pepper and fresh thyme,
barely cover them with duck stock, and allow them to bake, self-glazing in the
oven. Unfortunately, while I now
understand the idea, it was impossible to accomplish the goal without reducing
the sprouts to mush.
Pittsburgh,
90’s After
moving back to Pittsburgh, fusing with big Burrito, ferreting out a lot of
awesome local farmers, and re-discovering my connections with the seasons,
topography, and generally awesome mojo of this region, I undertook the project
of Brussels sprout realization. It seems
to me, a fan of rapini, mustards, cauliflower, and any other Brassica that
passes my way that I could grow to love the sprout. Here are my findings:
- It likes the fat,
preferably swine. Duck fat and
schmaltz are good, but butter doesn’t have the heartiness for it. Olive oil is good if you want. But why not lard?
- They need to be cooked
thoroughly, but not to mush. To
that end, I quarter or half them as I clean them so that all members
become approximately the same size.
This ensures even cooking.
The want to be well seasoned.
- Brussels hate to be
blanched and shocked and view it as an insult. If you need to pre-cook them for
service, better to pre-roast, or to cook them in batches and finish them
ala minute with some fresh heat and seasoning.
- They want a lot of
flavor with them. Salt them
well. They like a little acidity
and the faint slaughterhouse porkiness of cured pig parts. Black pepper, red pepper flakes, any
dry, hot chili goes well.
- Don’t tell your kids
that their name is Brussels sprouts.
I made this error and, if a time machine is invented in my life, I
will go back and correct that moment.
“Broccoli Spheres” seems like it could work.
SPQR,
San Francisco, Summer 2007 Invited to attend a 3-day potato conference at the
Culinary Institute of America at Greystone in Napa Valley, I add a day at the
beginning, rent a convertible Miata, and blast around the city myself checking
out restaurants. Of course, San
Francisco in the summer is freezing in a convertible, but it was worth it on
the drive up the coast and across to Napa.
I stopped in at SPQR, a tapas-style Italian place. I ordered a couple of small plates and a
glass of frizzante. The mussels and warm
salad were excellent, but the fried Brussels sprouts with lemon and white
anchovies floored me. A whole new wrinkle
in sprout deliciousness! It has inspred
a sixth rule of sprouts:
- Fry them raw. Quarter or slice them and fry them in
nice hot oil until well cooked.
When you first want to pull them out, let them fry. They are done when there is a lot of
delicious Brownness, some really crispy blackness, and a little residual
greenness. Shake off the oil,
season quickly, and eat them before your friends see them.
I hope you and yours have an awesome Brussels sprout
season. Following are two simple recipes
if you want to give it a shot.
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Brussels Sprouts with Pancetta
½ # Piece
of uncooked pancetta, diced small
1 ea. Medium
onion
1 Tbs. Duck fat (you probably don’t have rendered
duck fat at home so use your favorite oil)
3 # Brussels
sprouts
½ C. White
wine
Black
pepper
Salt
to taste (be careful)
- Dice ham into 1/8”
dice. Be careful and use a sharp
knife as the ham has a very heavy texture in this state. Dice onion small.
- Trim hard root ends
off Brussels sprouts. If they are
not small, halve or quarter.
- Place pancetta in a
shallow pot. Render.
- When rendered, scoop
out pancetta and set aside. Add
onions. Place on medium flame and
bring up to a sizzle. Sauté/sweat onions
until lightly browned.
- Add Brussels sprouts and wine. Bring to a boil and reduce to a
simmer. Lightly season with pepper.
- Cook with occasional
stirring until Brussels sprouts are tender and cider is evaporated (20 minutes
to half an hour).
- Season with salt only
at the end and only if necessary.
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Crispy Brussels Sprouts, White Anchovies, Lemon
Vinaigrette, Parmigianino Reggiano
2 # Brussels
sprouts
12 ea White
anchovy filets
Oil for frying
Salt
Lemon Vinaigrette (see below)
Chunk of Parmigianino
Reggiano
1)
Quarter or eighth sprouts. Discard ugly outer leaves and dark stem
tips.
2)
Heat oil in a heavy skillet or home deep fryer to 350۫º. Fry Brussels sprouts in batches until dark
brown on leaf tips.
3)
Lift out with a slotted spoon or round Chinese strainer and place on
paper towels.
4)
Season with a tiny bit of salt immediately after frying.
5)
Arrange on plate. Drizzle with
vinaigrette. Drape with anchovies. Shave parm atop.
Lemon Vinaigrette
Zest and juice 3 lemons
1 ea. Shallot minced
½ C. Extra virgin olive
oil
Salt and pepper
1) Place lemon zest and juice in a stainless steel
bowl.
2) Whisk in extra virgin olive oil.
3) Season with salt and pepper.